Chores

Admittedly, I wasn’t exactly a first mover when it comes to adding chore jackets to my rotation. But over the last year or so I have warmed significantly up towards them and now embrace the chore jacket in full. Here’s why.

Last week, during Easter, I started my seasonal wardrobe change. I do that twice a year, typically in April/May and again in September/October. The exact timing depends on the weather. Seasonal wardrobe change might indicate a bit more than it really is - it’s mainly replacing coats, tweed/wool jackets and flannel/wool trousers with cotton and linen jackets, overshirts, trousers and shorts. Heavier knitwear is also stoved away, although I usually keep some on hand for chilly Summer nights or Spring mornings.

Why do I mention this? Because I usually get some sort of seasonal urge for more casual garments around this time of year. I want to wear something that still feels like me, but a bit more casual, a bit more relaxed. Enter the chore jacket.

I am not going to do a deep and thorough categorisation of chore jackets and other unstructured jackets. These are readily available elsewhere. Instead, a few words on why I’ve been a bit hesitant in integrating chore jackets as a central part of my wardrobe, why that has changed, and some thoughts on how I wear them.

It’s not that I haven’t worn less structured jackets before. Most of my tailoring is lightly structured, and I have had my unstructured teba jacket (Justo Gimeno x Fox Flannel via Beige Habelieur) for several years and enjoyed wearing it.

To me, the chore jacket is utilitarian, stripped of almost everything that doesn’t have some sort of function. This is a nod to the workwear origin. No structure, less design and often a heavier or sturdier material makes the chore jacket less flattering to the wearer - at least I used to think so.

Now I think differently. What I find works for me with chore jackets is this: First of all, even if I want to dress more casually, I feel more put together when I wear some sort of jacket - likely some form of enclothed cognition. It makes me feel like me. Also, as longtime readers know, I really like pockets on upper half garments. Finally, I must admit that I get a bit of joy from wearing something that in a subtle way stands out without overdoing it. In a world of knitwear over shirts or logo pique polos a chore jacket does just that.

Most of the time I wear chore jackets with denim or more casual bottoms, but sometimes a chore jacket can work with tailored trousers too, especially if the trousers and the chore jacket aren’t top far apart in terms of formality in the fabric. I would find it hard to pull off a moleskin jacket with worsted trousers.

I usually wear loafers when I wear chore jackets, but then again, I do wear loafers quite often, so no surprise there. I do find, however, that dress loafers add a nice contrast to the more casual appearance of a chore jacket. Some sort of high/low dressing. Of course trainers can work as well, which is how I typically see footwear paired to chore jackets here in Copenhagen. Formal lace-up shoes with a chore jacket I would find hard to pull off.

Upon reflection, perhaps a chore jacket can be the first step towards a more tailored wardrobe for the man who otherwise would stay away from tailoring. The cut and design of a tailored jacket and chore jacket differ, but as the chore is quite simple in design, perhaps it is a great way to experience a range of classic fabrics like tweed, heavy cottons and linen.

My current roster of chores are four Drake’s chores (Dark navy twill cotton, Olive linen/cotton, Blanket-lined denim and Dark Brown Suede) and two Private White VC chores (Khaki cotton, Cream Japanese herringbone cotton). For summer my linen overshirts (Drake’s and Permanent Style x Luca Avitabile) are worn in much the same way and also with shorts. This spring I particularly look forward to wearing my recently aquired suede chore from Drake’s (and I’ve had my eyes on a Plage Coat from L.E.J. for quite some time too).

I find the chore jacket a central part of a relevant and contemporary wardrobe. Not as a substitute for the tailored jacket, but as a supplement.

So there they are, some of my thoughts on chore jackets. What are yours?