The Soft-Toned Base Layer
The Cav Twill-OCBD Combo explained
My IG is some sort of back-log of what I wear and have worn. Not everything, every mediocre mirror selfie is there, of course, but scrolling my IG it is easy to find clothes that appear multiple times. That is the point, I think, of the versatile wardrobe. There are also combos that appear often, and this one might be my favourite - or at least the one combo that I resort to when nothing else will do: The Cream Cavalry Twill-Light Blue OCBD Shirt Combo. The Soft-Toned Base Layer.
Besides jacket and shoes, there are two items in play here: A pair of cream cavalry twill trousers and a light blue oxford button-down shirt. The trousers (Rota) have a medium high rise, side adjusters and a 4,5 cm cuff. The shirts are oxford shirts from either Anglo-Italian or from Drake’s. Shoes is these pictures are dark brown oxfords (TLB Mallorca), but could just as easily be loafers.
Why does this work? First of all: It isn’t that complicated. Cream trousers, although not that common in Copenhagen or Denmark in general, doesn’t draw much attention and neither does the light blue shirt. It’s just a shirt. The cloth, cut and make may separate it from most other light blue shirts, but at first glance it is just a shirt.
Second, pale trousers are often easier to add a jacket and shirt to compared to darker bottoms. Interestingly, I often see navy or dark trousers on their own, but rarely with jackets (not a too common sighting either). In general, I most often see navy or grey jackets, and the occasional light or dark brown one. All colours that pair nicely with pale trousers, but are harder to match with darker options.
When matching jackets and trousers it is my experience that you often get the best balance in an outfit with some degree of contrast. Blue trousers and a navy jacket might work for some, but doesn’t for me. Too close to being a suit, I think it comes of unconsidered. Blue trousers, even dark navy ones, are also a tough match for a grey jacket, while a brown jacket might work a bit better, depending on the exact colours. The pale trousers, on the other hand, provides a subtle, but clear contrast to most jackets in the blue-grey-brown scheme.
Third and final observation is about the fabrics. As mentioned previously, pale trousers and a light blue shirt is lovely unfuzzy. This opens the door for playing around with fabrics and materials. Again, I find that some contrast, or variation, works best for me. So instead of choosing a smooth pair of worsted wool trousers and a poplin or twill shirt, I’ve chosen the matte, structured cavalry twill trousers and the structure of the oxford shirt. For a summer version, I would wear light gabardine or linen trousers. For a more casual outfit pale chinos and a light blue denim or chambray shirt could be wonderful, perhaps with a brown or navy overshirt or teba jacket on top. This adds just enough interest to the outfit, but keeps it in the details. Just as I prefer it.
So, there you have it, The Soft-Toned Base Layer. As always, please do comment and join the conversation.
Fully agree but really think that the proposed combinations would work best with a tie. The trousers, even though informal by nature of the cloth, are on the formal side of the informal spectrum and in my modest opinion are calling for a repp or wool tie. Drake's shirts really work well with a tie as they have enough collar space.