Why I Like Roll Necks

It’s hardly controversial in our menswear community to wear roll necks. In the colder months I wear a lot of knitwear, often a roll neck, and so I thought it could be a nice exercise to reflect on why I like to wear roll necks.

A couple of prerequisites: I am only considering “true” roll necks, with a long, tube-like knitted piece for the neck, which is folded and covers the neck. Second, I am focusing on knitted wool roll necks, knowing there also are roll necks in other materials, like knitted cotton or jersey options. I leave them out as I only have limited first hand experience with these.

Now, after the housekeeping, let’s get to it.

First of all, a roll neck helps frame the face better than a crew or v-neck. Like a collared knit, it makes the roll neck a nice alternative to a shirt, perhaps especially in the colder months.

Second of all, I find that the roll neck - if you pick the right colour, type of wool and weight - can actually be quite versatile. This doesn’t go for all types of wool roll necks, but some types of roll necks can both work with or without a jacket and with both denim or more formal trousers. More on that below.

Finally, there is the feeling of putting on a medium or heavy roll neck. When it’s good, it like a comforting and comfortable hug - at least to me. It picks me up and puts me together. Comfort is not an excuse for not dressing well.

Now, back to the versatility. A division of roll necks into three broad categories might be useful here:

The first category is the light, knitted roll necks, like John Smedley merinos or light cashmere knits. I find these great for layering, for instance under a jacket or a (heavier) knitted cardigan. However, they are less forgiving and can look a little odd on their own. Hence less versatile.

The second category I would call mid-weight roll necks, typically lambswool, cashmere or the like. These are typically quite soft, and in the right design, I think they can work both under a jacket and on their own. And with jeans, flannels and cords.

In this category I would place my lambswool roll necks from Rubato. Cut a little shorter, I find they work well under a jacket (OK, sometimes it get’s a little hot). However, colour is also a factor, and I find the ‘fawn’, which is somewhat ecru/beige, more versatile with jackets, than the navy I have, as the navy is actually quite rich, and more difficult to pair with for instance my brown and grey jackets. However, without a jacket, it’s a bit vice versa. Probably the most versatile of the three categories - but mind the colour if you plan to wear it under a jacket.

The third category are for the heavier, chunkier, coarser roll necks. Shetland knit or cable-knits like for instance Arran knits belongs here. Often more casual, rustic and best on their own - or under a nice coat (or wax jacket).

Of the three categories, I currently wear category 2 and 3 roll necks the most. Category 2 is particularly relevant for my work context, where I usually prefer to wear a jacket.